It was the summer of 2007 I had itchy feet. I have a proper adventure for about 2 years was not, so it was time to start planning! I always enjoyed tracking and Africa Namibia follows the journey of an amazing few years ago was desperate to visit again. The two together and 'hey presto' Keep you find Kilimanjaro - Africa's majestic roof.
The first challenge, and arguably one of the most difficult, was to persuade my other half the world's highest mountain freestanding (It's a prestigious Seven Summits) climb that was a good idea! Paul, (my other half), less courageous by nature more 'off' to me, so I knew it was not going to be easy. I propose to consider carefully, down the game (not to mention it) a little bit about the world's highest mountain to be freestanding, and it is normal that the "feel good dear" is somewhat grateful relief He was not met with on the hook for our next holiday event. That trip was booked for mid-February 2008.
Climbing the Kilimanjaro climb any technical experience, crampons or ice picks are not required, though a strong 5,895 m (19 340 ft) standing and therefore very demanding physically, (even before you Add to altitude sickness). Now trip was booked, we were trained to do and what we need to start thinking about the kit we get, so Paul needed to correct the impression that huge mountain of Kilimanjaro was a kind needed! I read it one evening in September the following article: Kilimanjaro take on - Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, Kent Stewart (great account and well worth a read) by Africa. Article I saw facial expressions that only fear, panic anxiety, and disbelieve some combination of the total can be described as seen at the end. What he's unknowingly agreed in earnest at the end was immersed
The next 5 months, and a rather reluctant to shower between berating comments from Paul ("You are irresponsible," "you do not know what we are capable", etc. "You're going to get us killed"); We have researched and bought our kit (Kit list see below) and started a training program.
Paul and I both work in London live in Woking (just outside London), so we were limited in terms of practice on the mountains! We went to the gym a few times every week and most weekends on the South Downs come.
Time came in February, berating comments was off and we both really excited about our Tanzania adventure was a little nervous that perhaps we did not have enough training or we had forgotten some bits of kit. When we were on our flight to London Heathrow, I have another couple that we should be climbing Kili from the rucksacks, walking poles and running shoes knew remember sitting. His boots were brand new and I obviously like the satisfaction that at least felt that we were not unprepared - if nothing else, we had our shoes in "Gone!
We were at the hotel for our kit sorted out the next day. This time was really nerves begin to kick in. We may be able to do so? What if one of us needs to turn back? We Machame route was chosen because it is one of the most beautiful and diverse routes and now some of the other routes, (and giving more opportunity to acclimatise to the altitude), but are certainly no guarantee are. A glass of wine to calm nerves and make an early night.
Day 1 - Machame Park Gate (1815 5590 m / ft) to Machame Camp (9850 3003 m / ft)
(Our guide) Godfrey and Paul (our cook) we raised in the morning we drove to Machame Park Gate. We met our porters (there were 10 in addition to guides and guide!), Registered and then started to climb out. Porters in front and literally within seconds we can now see them bounded off! Godfrey explained that we should take it slowly, in Swahili "Pole Pole" - It would help us to acclimatise. Somewhat relieved that make up the mountain at the same speed as forced porters were not expecting, we settled in a very leisurely pace.
We anticipate thick through a well-maintained walking paths were. It's quite terrifying in places, and akin to how you would imagine the forest in fairytales. > 6ft stand with the vast heath - As time gradually tapered and gradually gave way to country wood trees Heath died. Around 14:00 on, the heavens opened and it's hard for about 3 hours rained. We later found out about the rain forecast at 2:00 pm every day, so you do not mind getting wet clothes or climbing out 1 day early to suggest that it will dry wear.
We went for nearly 6 hours before we got to camp. It really felt like the longest days to run (even if it was wise to distance) - I think it was the first day of battle to do more and understand what is expected to be used was. Porters had been there for hours already set up our tent and started dinner!
Dinner was great! We starter and main course and dessert of fruit soup and pasta to fish was popcorn. I fully what Paul was cooked on a small gas stove was blown away with!
Machame camp was our first experience of Kili toilets! They are usually a small hut of wood with a hole in the floor big enough for just one person, are. At best, these toilets have a lock with a sharp recent bleach is flowing. At worst, there are parties, not the lock on the door panels are missing, flies and, ahem, dirty floor. Although to be fair Machame camp were probably the worst smell in the case of the toilet because the weather is still quite hot and humid in 3000 to m
Machame camp was the first time we saw a little breath. Uncomfortable, not really just funny - like I had just been up on slopes - up camp, I felt breathless just walking less steep slopes.
Day 2 - Machame Camp (5590 1815 m / ft) Shira Camp (9850 3003 m / ft) to
Quick breakfast and then we hit the 2 day climb. Was steeper in the morning the last day - I have more and 'Pole Pole' was becoming more of a fan!
Uhuru peak was hidden by clouds most of the time, but when we stopped for lunch for a few minutes the clouds cleared and caught a glimpse!
As we climbed the heather is less and less by the time we reached Shira camp have received sparse heather and what you would expect in the UK had such a height. At 4:00 we got to about the camp, took a rest and then walk a couple of hundred meters up a little - "a nice little sleep to help your body to the height aclimatise as' high climbing "and then each night.
And all off a little bit more then last night was peaceful - we set up our tents on the edge of camp. A room with a view to talk about - Uhuru peak down as a background with a picture of our tent! We also have a beautiful pink that evening, yellows and orange sunset was full, but so far the best bit was watching the clouds above! A spiritual experience at all.
Day 3 - Shira Camp (3003 9850ft / m) Barranco Camp (12 950 3948 m / ft) to
I have 3 days with really sore hands and cheeks up quickly and realized that I had bad sun burn before the day. I put factor 50 on my face but it was very well done and not missed bit my cheeks were blistered now! My hands were raw red top! It was not a pleasant experience at all, and urge, but you can not make the same mistake I did!
After a heavy basting of snacks and sun screen, we set off. To disappear completely at the landscape now appears rocky ground with Heath became sparser still. Climb was strenuous last days as the trail steepened, so we took it slow. We Lava Tower (15,000 4573 m / ft) up from before we descended back down to our camp for the evening - part of the "climb high, sleep low" system. Laver tower 300ft volcanic Kilimanjaro volcano time was left over from the plug. 4573 m the highest elevation we were a long way still and breathing had become much more noticeable was by. We were running really slowly, one foot in front of the other steps such as fairy, and yet out of breath felt like we were running. Paul also made it light but it was a headache, not severe, though - it had been closed since the previous night.
After lunch we descended to Barranco valley lava tower. One thing that I have not mentioned yet that I really down / Moutains etc. being hills, especially when they are fast'm not a big fan. My knees hurt and freaks out a bit I thought of falling - and downs is definitely more my bag. What the hell was I climbing Kili, I hear? Ask! Well, my theory was that once I got to the top I have no choice because I had to get down - so I worry about it when I got to it! I had my first taster offspring in Barranco Honestly, it was not much fun. I already have blisters on my cheeks, and sore knees and a steep rocky descent was nothing better than it was angry!
As we dropped into the valley, the landscape became greener and less business. Vegetation was nothing we had seen before, and especially Paul's eye caught a plant - the endemic giant lobelia which specific Kili. We will climb the next morning - we got out first glimpse of Barranco wall.
That evening we camped down the Barranco wall. Another wonderful and much-needed early night after dinner I decided to
Day 4 - Barranco Camp (12 950 3948 m / ft) Karanga Valley Camp (13 900 4238 m / ft) to
The next morning my hands and cheeks were much better - phew. But we still had to climb the Barranco wall. Accounts before our visit we "almost impossible" being "and" dangerous dangerous "require significant climbing experience" was read as many of Barranco sited. So obviously we were a bit despite assurances Godfrey daunted,.
We set off quite quickly realized that it is not anywhere near being as bad as we had feared accounts. It is steep and a little uncertain in places, but in no way of climbing experience required! We have almost all the way up only a few points where we had to struggle with the left. Half way we stopped for a quick break and back to the campsite behind us all the way to see a line of people looked on - it looked like a long line of colorful ants!
In all, it took about one and half hours and the final ridge we climb the Barranco wall, a breathtaking view of Uhuru Peak, which suddenly looked a lot closer than it ever had before met with went up to !
After a short break stunning views we pressed on for another couple of hours until we reached Karanga Valley Camp to take.
We are 4238 m (13 900 ft) were and we were still feeling the effects of altitude. Still sitting in bed makes you feel breathless, let alone short walk to the toilet! I still had not had any headaches, but Paul was worse (although was not stable.)
Day 5 - Karanga Valley Camp (13 900 4238 m / ft) Barafu camp (15 200 4634 m / ft) to
Barafu camp was much less walk, probably only about 4-5 hours, and for the most part is fairly easy. But Barafu camp on an exposed ridge and the last part of trip was heavy. About halfway up the ridge when I first have a headache - a sharp, stabbing pains all over my head - but not even that could not sort a couple of paracetamol.
We arrived in camp, ate a quick, early evening sky caught a couple of pictures, and nervously went to bed - we will attack the night after Uhuru peak!
Day 6 - Barafu Uhuru Mweka Camp (3,000 m 9840 / ft) to top (19 340 5895 m / ft) to camp (15 200 4634 m / ft)
Neither of us slept too much - we were both too busy with the idea of climbing that we lay ahead. What if we had come all the way and can not do it?
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